In the 2004 movie Sideways, Virginia Madsen’s grape-loving waitress gives a classic speech about wine. “I like how wine continues to evolve,” she says, “like if I open a bottle the wine will taste different than if I opened it on any other day, or at any other moment. Because a bottle of wine is actually alive. And it’s constantly evolving and gaining complexity.”
Finger Lakes, the cool-climate wine region in upstate New York, is gaining recognition for its wines. A surprisingly extensive array of grape varieties thrives in the area. We have tasted some of them, and we were impressed.